Lumbaz gets a bunch of visitors

After saying goodbye to Oma, Cristina and Gina we sailed north to Lovina, on the northern coast of Bali.

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Fisherman in these waters take pride of their boats. (sometimes it looks like they were on an LSD trip)

We enjoyed a few days of taking care of Lumbaz, catching up with missed schoolwork and a couple of visits to the Green School in Bali and even a trash walk with John Hardy. We got really inspired by the projects they handle.

trash walk
John, Benjamin, Eugénie, Daniel and Peter after their trash walk.

Our plan was to sail north across the Java Sea to the Kangean Islands, some 80 miles away. We had agreed to meet our friends on Nautilus there, who were sailing from Lombok.
The passage was great with beautiful sailing wind again after so much time!

Kangean Islands supply comes from traditional boats trading between Java and Surabaya.
Kangean Islands supply comes from traditional boats trading between Java and Surabaya.

We found a beautiful and protected bay surrounded by reefs, unfortunately the presence of salt water crocodiles did not allow for any swimming.
The anchorage was about 2 miles away from the main town of Saobi which gave us some privacy. But after a short visit to the local school everybody looked for a way to get to Lumbaz. Small longboats, diesel powered or under sail were coming from the village and from the neighboring villages to visit Lumbaz. We estimate that the two following days more tan 60 people came on board.

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At one stage, we even had to organize the visits, only allowing one boat per visit, while the others drifted waiting for their turn.

Boats taking turns to get on board. Mainly to take pictures of themselves, and of the girls!!
Boats taking turns to get on board. Mainly to take pictures of themselves, and of the girls!!

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Some younger students were approaching with small tuned canoes roaring at high speed, others were coming, sail up, with the wind and the teenagers motored to Lumbaz. On board, kids were excited, taking pictures of the boat, of all of us and for sure, of the girls…

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Small kids move independently, sailing their sail powered canoes into the sunset in crocodile infested waters. No bubble-wrapped kids in this area!

Three young kids came rowing on a small canoe on their own.

Kagena small 2nd - 3 (1)We invited them on board and they had taken their English exercise book in order to practice the language with us. We tried our best and talked in English and Bahasa but they did hardly speak it, since they mostly spoke Kangean, their local language.

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One of the visit took longer than expected, showing the interesting talks we got involved in. The problem is that the sun disappeared behind the horizon and our visitors, as all Kangean people, are devote Muslims and needed to perform their Maghrib or evening prayer. They asked if it was ok for us and after washing their hands and feet on board used the foredeck for their Salath.

It was a really nice atmosphere. All those spontaneous visits, that could have been tiresome, are a treasure in our memories and a box full of surprises.
We spent a long time with some teenagers that could speak some English and were really fond of football. For sure, coming from Barcelona was a treat for them and we spoke a lot about Messi, Neymar,…  message of Saobi boys to Messi  (thinking that because we come from Barcelona, we can talk to him.


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I think we cannot call them Catalans, but they sure wear those colors with pride!

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We could easily have spent some more time in this beautiful anchorage, observing the fishermen and slowly getting to know more and more people.
But Borneo was waiting for us. We had to renew our visas in our next destination: Banjarmasin, Kalimantan’s capital, called the “City of Rivers”.


6 thoughts on “Lumbaz gets a bunch of visitors

  1. svbrightwater July 3, 2016 / 8:06 am

    The Lumbazians are stunningly resilient and flexible. When ordinary mortals would crack and run away screaming, they gather themselves and persevere. Angels, maybe. Fierce, angelic mer-peeps.

    The three boys with their English books…wow. You really are on the edge of all this, and we’re so proud of you. Were there any boats with just girls? At what age do the local kids separate and become boys and girls instead of kids?

    • Lumbaz July 14, 2016 / 12:13 pm

      We have been thinking about the answer and try to analize it.
      For sure it has been a topic that we have discussed a lot with the girls as our three mermaids have thought it unfair that no girls were coming on board and how society is organised for women and girls in a lot of places. On the small islands in Solomon and PNG we always had more visits from boys than girls. But whenever we had big gatherings of kids on board, girls would join as well and being a predominantly female crew on Lumbaz we always encourage local girls to do it!

      We had very interesting conversations about how women and men rule the island, how our world is ruled and we guess there is not a big difference anywhere. Women seem to be more focused in every society on the development of the species, taking care of children, food and gardens, so maybe with more sustainable values. Men go hunting and are the “economy-based” rulers. Does it ring the bell?

      In Indonesia, since primary classrooms are not mixed. It is the same for the adults world where in gatherings men stay together and women as well. We were happy that the principle of the school came with his wife, who was a teacher herself, but we had no visit of any other girl or woman on board in Kangean. There were no boat with only girls. In other places like Bandaneira we had visits from girls as well but I will say always more boys than girls.
      So I guess the proper answer to when do kids become boys or girls would be when they stop to be a todler or in between todler and primary school.

      • svbrightwater July 14, 2016 / 12:31 pm

        We met a woman once who had lived her entire life as a militant feminist, striving for the cause. As she got older she met a man and they went sailing and got married, and soon settled into pink and blue traditional roles. When they got back to the world, she hid her marriage and her new life from her old friends for several years. She felt that she had failed her sex.

        How nice it would be to avoid “should” and focus on “can” and “will.” I think sometimes we (western societies) hurt our kids by not promoting or at least presenting traditional roles as a baseline, with non-traditional roles as perfectly acceptable alternatives for individuals.

        Always great to hear from Lumbaz. Take care of each other. Our love to all.

  2. Dick Weitzenhoffer July 4, 2016 / 11:46 pm

    Genie & Dank, the kids are really growing up! I still remember Nils in his stroller at the airport in Barcelona. Now he’s piloting his own little dinghy!! Are you ever getting back to Barcelona or San Diego?

  3. azitafebriani July 11, 2016 / 2:08 pm

    It’s amazing how you treat the guests daniel.. Thank you 😍

    • Lumbaz July 13, 2016 / 2:11 am

      Hi Azita, it is great to hear from you. Thank you, but remember, it is us who are the guest in your country and what is amazing is how you all have treated us. Tarimah Kasi!

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